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Hair Cuts & Face Shape: The Anatomy Of Style
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Most of us choose a haircut because it looks hot on someone else - usually a celebrity who can afford to have his or her hair done every day, or a model who spends hours getting it just right. Rarely do we understand the anatomy dynamics of a hair style, and too few people who cut hair professionally know the art and science of how to frame the face with hair in a flattering way, based on individual face shape and bone structure. But the more you pay attention to the way the hair works with the rest of your head, the better your cut will look.
Think about the last time you picked out a hat to buy, or a pair of sunglasses. You probably tried on lots of styles and colors until one of them clicked. You may not know why it looked right, but you just had an intuition or a feeling that it was the best for you. Haircuts should be chosen the same way. Problem is, we can't try them on and off like we do cheap sunglasses or caps. But we can learn a few basics about anatomy and the visual effects of hair around the face, to help you decide.
Here are five tips to help you get started on the path of looking at your haircut as part of your greater physical appearance and unique identity, instead of an off-the-shelf item you pick out because it fits somebody else.
1) Ears - in or out?
If you like your ears, then show the world. But if you have ears that you think stick out too much, don't accentuate the look by having a close cut. Tell your stylist to leave your hair thick behind the ears, down toward the level of the jaw line or earlobe. This will create the illusion that your ears are closer to your head. If you have shorter hair, but you keep it sufficiently thick, you can just comb it back behind the ears (so it wraps around the way the ends of eyeglasses do) and suddenly your ears look perfect.
2) Does long hair shorten your neck? Hide your pretty face?
Long hair is feminine and fabulous, but if you have long hair, you also have tons of sexy options. You can cut it in layers around your face, to frame your face with playful curls or waves. Or you can cut it at various lengths all over, to add texture and depth.
By cutting long hair in such a way that it no longer hangs around your face like a veil, you can often accentuate your face more. Cut layers and you can boost the volume - add some contrasting low or high lights and you can pump up the texture.
Sometimes, depending on your body shape and size, covering the neckline with hair can make you look shorter and can make your neck look compressed (like a football player). To get the opposite look, experiment with leaving hair away from the sides of your face, so that it doesn't cover and hide your jaw line, cheeks, and neck. This can flatter the face, and if you are blessed with a lovely neck, this kind of cut makes you look taller and more elegant.
3) Men and balding:
Lots of men go to great lengths (no pun intended) to fight the fact that their natural allotment of hair doesn't cover the entire real estate of their head. But some have figured out that shaving it all off is a simple way to win the receding hairline game. Shave it off for a youthful and masculine look, if you like the shape of your head and can handle parting with those few strands that are holding on for dear life. Many guys are doing it themselves and keeping it cue ball slick by using the new kinds of "headblade" razors that fit over your finger like a ring and are more comfortable for shaving the head.
4) Bangs can add a sharp look to a high forehead.
If you have a high waist, then you probably buy jeans that are cut and designed to make your figure look better. If you have a high forehead, why not do the same thing? Straight-across bangs that fall down over the eyebrows are not only sexy, they can help you change the way your face looks and give it a more angular appearance.
5) Color: It's not just hair color.
One inside secret that the best colorists know is that the color of your hair can help to determine the color of your skin. Yeah, we all know that it's popular to go dark for winter and then beach blonde for summer, but the trend has purpose. If you have very fair skin, and you choose a very light hair color - light blonde for instance - it can make your whole face look washed-out and pale (too much light on light going on). If you add a little contrast, it not only frames your face nicely; it can add color when you are waiting for summer to arrive. When the tropical skin tone returns, you can go as light as you want, for the same contrasting effect.
Discuss how cuts will shape your face with your stylist - they will appreciate the fact that you have some insight into how it all works. Then pick a cut that flatters your face, and don't forget to smile while the world tries to figure out "what is it about her new haircut that looks so fantastic?"
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John Williams offers free tips on how to style hair at http://www.hairstyleswatch.com/
John Williams offers free tips on how to style hair at http://www.hairstyleswatch.com/
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Her engagement to a prince of Monaco is certainly bringing out the retro, '50s girl in Blair Waldorf. Last week's Grace Kelly kicks off this week's episode as a wannabe Audrey Hepburn, joyriding through New York on the back of Louis' Vespa. But her idyllic, black-and-white dream sequence quickly becomes a nightmare when B looks in the rear-view and sees Chuck Bass staring back at her.
Unfortunately, this will not turn out to be Blair's only contact with Chuck. After last week, when he lunged at her, punched through a window and ended up cutting her, I had hoped she would stay away from him until he got some help -- because what's happening between them looks a whole lot like an abusive relationship.
Josh Safran, an executive producer of "Gossip Girl," doesn't see it this way. He told E! Online, "We feel it's very important to know that [Blair] is not scared -- if anything, she is scared for Chuck, and what he might do to himself -- but she is never afraid of what he might do to her. Leighton and I were very clear about that." Considering how terrified Blair looked at the end of their encounter, and how quickly she got out of there, the show is sending a mixed message at best. As Jezebel points out, the Chuck-Blair relationship may have crossed a line in conflating violence with romance. We have no right to expect "Gossip Girl" to be a paragon of morality, or even realism, but the idea that true love requires taking a shard of glass to the face is disturbing even in this alternate, soap-opera dimension.
Even so, because finale time is almost upon us, the writers couldn't even give Blair a single Chuck-free week. In fact, the incident only seems to increase her loyalty to him. Early on, she shows up at his new construction site in Brooklyn to warn Chuck that his evil uncle Jack is in town. Does he apologize? Nope. "Look who finally came to her senses," he greets Blair. She icily informs him that her engagement is still on, red dress red dress but the fact that she's there at all destroys any hope we may have held out that she's bound for wedded bliss.
Blair's inner turmoil is compounded by the fact that her future mother-in-law, Princess Sophie, has had her followed and knows she went to see Chuck the night she accepted Louis' proposal. When her prince learns of this potential betrayal bridal dress , he takes over surveillance duty and follows Blair to Brooklyn -- where he later confronts his rival in person and is haunted by Chuck's words: "Blair is nothing without her secrets." The encounter delays his arrival at that night's engagement party, and although Cyrus has charmed Louis' mother into gracing the couple with her blessing white dresses , the prince now has some worries of his own.
Finally, Louis asks Blair the question that's been at the tip of all our tongues: "How can you lie to protect someone who hurt you?" Because a satisfying answer is surely beyond the scope of "Gossip Girl's" melodramatic universe, he concludes that his fiancee has a "dark side" of her own. And, ever the understanding lover, he says he wants her to "show me all of the parts of yourself, even the ones that you're ashamed of." Great guy, huh? Too bad his days are numbered.
By the end of the episode, even after a heart-to-heart with Cyrus, who agrees that she should come clean with her husband-to-be, Blair has let her attachment to Chuck get her into what could be mortal danger. At a fundraiser for her high-school alma mater, she receives a message that Chuck is on the roof and will jump unless she goes up to talk him down. But moments later, when Chuck arrives at the party, we realize it's a set-up. So, who's on the roof with Blair? None other than Russell Thorpe, who might very well want to hurt Blair, if not kill her.
We'll have to wait until next week's finale to see how Blair's capture plays out. (I wouldn't bet on homicide, since B's murder would be suicide for "Gossip Girl" Season 5.) What we do know is that Russell is desperate by the time he gets her on that roof.
This week's Bass Industries subplot is as complicated as ever, with alliance shifts occurring approximately once per scene. While the dreaded Jack Bass comes to town at Raina's request, to help her take down Chuck, he quickly swings to Russell's side instead. Together prom dress , they'll sabotage Jack's debauched nephew and split the spoils of Bass Industries. But first Wedding Accessories Wedding Accessories, Russell will need Jack to get him that box of "mementos" from Chuck's dad's affair with Raina's mom.
At first, it appears everything is going as planned. Jack shows up (with Nate on his heels), and an intoxicated Chuck punches him in the face. Then, some burly, uniformed men drag Bart Bass' heir off to rehab, leaving Russell to plunder Chuck's belongings as he sees fit. So it's a surprise when Chuck, Jack and Nate appear in Russell's office together soon after that -- and an even bigger one when they reveal their evidence that it was Russell, not Bart, who killed Avery Thorpe in that fire.
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For some reason, Chuck offers Russell the same deal his father extended after the building burned down: He'll forget about everything if Thorpe will leave town and never bother the Bass family again. Now that they've missed their chance to call the police, Nate tells Raina everything -- and, of course, she promptly confronts Russell. The next time we see him, homecoming dresses homecoming dresses he's luring Blair to the roof.
In other alarming news, Charlie's transformation from poor relation to psychopath kicks into high gear this week. Having vanquished Vanessa, she's happy enough to secretly go off her meds. And with that barrier to insanity broken, it's time for her to go "Single White Female" (or should I say "The Roommate"?) on Serena. It isn't just that she wants Dan and will do anything necessary to get him; in preparation for their date, Charlie styles her hair like her cousin's, steals Serena's dress and then lies about it. None of this raises a flag for Lonely Boy, until they're about to have sex and she asks if he'll call her "Serena." Blech.
All of these story lines have me hooked, so it looks like my fear that "Gossip Girl" would lose its momentum (again) before next week's season finale was unfounded. If I don't seem as excited about that as I should be, it may have something to do with my lingering ambivalence toward Chuck and Blair. This week, the writers teased us that they were sending Chuck to rehab. But why is it a big joke that a guy might need professional help when his substance abuse problem has driven him to hit the woman he loves? Maybe he could stand to spend some time detoxing. As for Blair, it's clear Louis isn't the love of her life. Instead of a fairy-tale wedding or a tearful reunion with Chuck, I think what she really needs is to spend some time on her own. ShowTrackers, do you agree?
Your weekly "Gossip Girl" fashion top five muslim wedding dresses muslim wedding dresses:
1. Serena's purple, deep V-neck Dior dress with the sheer bodice and a tangle of necklaces
2. Louis' chocolate, black bridesmaid dresses suede, belted jacket
3. Blair's crisp, white Milly coat with the gold-chain closures and green ODLR scarf
4. Serena's coral, Greek-goddess gown with the silver beading
5. Blair's bright, melon, short-sleeved dress
RELATED:
Full Show Tracker coverage of "Gossip Girl"
-- Judy Berman
twitter.com/judyberman
Photo: Chuck and Blair's tense meeting, at his Brooklyn construction site. Credit: Giovanni Rufino / The CW
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